The recently presented Tissot Luxury Automatic sports a more refined version of the new Powermatic 80 (aka ETA CO7.111) self-winding caliber that also happens to power the gorgeous Certina DS Powermatic 80 Limited Edition that we have already reviewed briefly last week. Still, this particular iteration of the movement is not only better decorated but is also much more precise, since it is built with more carefully selected parts and is better adjusted.
Yes, although Tissot is not the first brand that comes to mind when it comes to ‘real’ chronometers, this version of the Powermatic 80 is indeed officially certified as such by the Swiss chronometer authority COSC.
Looking as a result of the natural evolution of the good ole ETA 2824, the movement is a trifle slower than its ancestor but sports a number of enhancements that visibly increase its energy efficiency (and also, probably, its life span).
Compared to the version that powers the aforementioned Certina watch, this version also sports a lot more elaborated decor not only on its stainless steel oscillating weight but also on the bridges.
Its synthetic sapphire crystal that protects the dial from dust and other fine particles is treated with some antireflective coating (on both sides!) and the usual mineral glass on the back is, too, replaced with scratch-resistant sapphire!
Of course, I may be wrong, but it looks like Tissot finally decided to move upmarket, closer to its sister brand Longines.
Although I am not truly fond of the pattern, which is embossed on the sides of the compact stainless steel body, it still shows that this is not your usual Tissot: cheap and uninspiring. The Luxury collection was designed to look expensive or, at least, not as banal as most of the Tissot-branded timekeepers of the past.
Still, the Swiss watchmaker didn’t manage to hide all the, um, ignoble elements of its DNA.
While most dress watches from brands like Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantine are usually equipped with ultra-thin calibers, the Powermatic 80 is bulky, even for its guaranteed power reserve of 80 hours, and the watch itself, even despite being larger in diameter than an average expensive three-hander, looks a bit too thick to feel comfortable if you prefer shirts with tight cuffs.
Also, guys with thin wrists may find the watch just too big (at least, for a dressy timepiece). So, as usual, try before you buy.
As for the price, the MSRP of $1075 is a bit on the more expensive side of the fence, but, well, for a dressy timekeeper with a robust and reliable caliber this is more or less acceptable I think.
Tissot Luxury Automatic Chronometer (ref. T086.408.16.051.00) specification
Price: $1075 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Powermatic 80 (ETA CO7.111), COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 23
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 80 hours
Movement decoration: Waves pattern on the oscillating weight and bridges
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: Stainless steel
Size: 41.00 mm
Lug width: 22 mm
Hour markers: Applied
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Black leather strap
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective on both sides