Swiss Watches
‘Worldtimers‘ are extremely popular these days. They are produced as ultra-limited one-offs, as well as dirt-cheap throwaways from numerous Chinese “fashion” brands with a lifespan of a fruit fly. The Swiss-based brand Baume & Mercier has recently introduced its own take on the idea. Powered by a (technically) in-house automatic caliber, the new Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer (ref. MOA10107 aka 10107) is available both in stainless steel and in a lot more expensive rose gold body.
While many less expensive ‘worldtimers’ are often equipped with a fixed 24-hour city disk with a GMT hour hand showing time in a second time zone, this one stays true to the original concept. While the city disk is fixed (the names of time zones are painted on the main disk that also houses 11 Breguet-style Arabic numerals and all the usual inscriptions, including the brand’s name), the 24-hour ring closer to the bezel flange rotates around it showing current time in each of the city.
To make reading the second time zone display even easier, the ring is painted in ivory white and chocolate brown (it almost matches the color of the alligator leather strap that the rose gold version comes on) with the former indicating day and the latter night.
In their catalogues, Baume et Mercier lists the watch as powered by a ‘manufacture’ movement although I saw contradicting information that it is just a heavily refinished caliber made by La Joux-Perret. Frankly, I am inclined to believe the info in the catalogue since, being owned by Richemont SA, the Swiss-based brand must have access to their infinite knowledge base as well as can list movements produced by other members of the holding group as ‘in-house.’ Well, at least technically, I think.
Predictably, the model is presented in the same 44 mm x 14.50 case size as the other members of the Capeland family, but fashioned from expensive 18-carat rose gold alloy. While one can only welcome Baume & Mercier’s mighty effort to make each collection look as consistent as possible, I must admit that the vintage styling of the watch with its Breguet hands and numerals and the usual ultra-thin, exquisitely sculpted bezel look somewhat out of place on the oversized case of the timekeeper.
Also, intended to be worn with formal attire, the thick watch may be too thick for those preferring a narrow-cuffed shirt to something more comfortable.
Still, I am pretty sure that a great number of customers (especially those with large wrists that simply dwarf the usual dressy time measuring devices measuring around 39 millimeters in diameter) will simply love the size of this thing.
As for the price, the watch will be offered at MSRP of $21,000: in the same ballpark as other gold timepieces with similar functionality.
WWR Verdict
Originality 4.5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 1/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
See also: Baume & Mercier Capeland Flyback Chronograph Black Dial
Photos: Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier Capeland Worldtimer (Ref. 10107) watch specification
Price: $21,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, listed as ‘in-house’, modular, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 35
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: No data
Movement decoration: Skeletonized oscillating weight, blued screws, perlage (circular graining)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, world time (GMT)
Case material: Rose gold
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 44.00 mm
Case height: 14.50 mm
Lug width: 21 mm
Dial: White
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Black
Hands: Breguet-type, rose gold
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Brown alligator leather strap on rose gold tang buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire