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Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH)

November 24, 2013 by Evgueni Matoussevitch Filed Under: Swiss Brands

Ball Watch Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH) watch

Just in time for the holiday shopping season (and to officially mark its 130th anniversary), the American company offers its automatic Ball Trainmaster Standard Time (ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH) that attempts to combine vintage style with contemporary technology in the same compact case.

The watch sort of reincarnates the old 1998 Ball Trainmaster Heritage (ref. NM1052D-RG-LJ-WH) model that was first released 15 years ago as a limited edition timekeeper to celebrate the brand’s 115th year in business. At least, it is powered by the same ETA 2895-2 COSC-certified automatic chronometer (the same movement powers the last year’s Xetum Tyndall PVD Automatic), which is now called “Ball caliber RR1105-C” and features the same design of its enameled white dial.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic in rose gold (NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH)

Compared to that model (I am not sure whether it is legit to call the 1998 model an “original”), the new Ball Watch Trainmaster Standard Time automatic watch features a considerably less chunky rose gold body. Thanks to its ultra-thin bezel that holds a convex sapphire crystal and slightly (by about 1.5 mm in diameter) smaller body, the watch not only looks more elegant but also has a larger dial opening.

Of course, like many good things, the larger dial has its drawbacks, too. While there is lots of breathing space, the subsidiary seconds indicator now looks a little too close to the visual center of the dial making it look a tad weird: a common problem for dressy timekeepers that are powered by third-party movements.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH, front view)

As I have already hinted, this new Trainmaster Standard Time (unlike a great number of vintage-styled wristwatches that were recently unveiled by Swiss watchmakers, that is) comes in a compact rose gold case that measures just over 39 millimeters in diameter. The choice of sizing makes this beautiful timekeeper one of the best choices for those seeking a true dress watch with vintage flavor. Although the device is powered by a mass-produced self-winding caliber that was never considered particularly thin, it measures only 10.5 millimeters top to bottom that, again, makes it comfortable if you happen to work in a company with strict dress code and plan to wear it with formal attire that also includes a shirt with tight cuffs.

Its setting crown, which is nicely decorated with the brand’s well-known logo, is a bit too large, but that was done for the sake of usability: it is just massive enough to be easily operated even to those with relatively short, stubby fingers.

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH, dial, tritium tubes glowing)

All things considered, the watch makes an eclectic impression with its italicized, Breguet-styled Arabic numerals coming from the 18th century, plume-shaped hands reminding of Art-deco watches from the 1930s, and tritium gas tubes (whole 14 of them) looking deliberately high-tech.

On a personal note (yes, I prefer to write my reviews with a personal touch, I am not a robot), I must admit that I have an issue or two with this time measuring tool that also happens to be a posh accessory.

I can’t quite put it, but there is something irritatingly false about the whole thing. It somehow looks like a 1930 Mercedes-Benz duplication with bi-xenon headlights and light-alloy forged rims wrapped in low-profile rubber. Put apart, the elements look right but put them together and you have a sort of a costly Frankenstein of a car. The same is with this watch: it doesn’t look right.

Another thing that gets me is more or less rational: the Arabic numeral at three o’clock is cut in the most unpleasant way. I could have taken it for a sort of tongue in cheek design quirk, but I know that this is because somebody decided to cut a corner and didn’t adapt the dial to the mass-produced mechanism that animates it. Not good.

According to Ball Watches, the gadget will go on sale in December and will be available at a recommended street price of $7700: not too expensive for a watch in a rose gold body.

See also: Ball Trainmaster Eternity Automatic

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH, setting crown)

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH, white enamel dial)

Photos: Ball Watches

WWR verdict

Originality 4/5
Build quality: 4.5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for money: 4/5

Ball Trainmaster Standard Time Automatic (Ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH) specification

Price: $7700 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Ball caliber RR1105-C (base ETA 2895-2), Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 28
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 53 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case: 18-karat rose gold
Shape: Round
Size: 39.50 mm
Case height: 10.50 mm
Dial: White enamel
Numerals: Arabic, painted
Hour markers: Luminous, tritium gas tubes
Hands: Luminous
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown crocodile leather strap with 18-karat rose gold buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective, convex
Back: Sapphire, convex

Tagged With: 30 m, 39 mm, Ball Watches, ETA 2895, rose gold, tritium

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