Swiss Watches
The new 2015 Breitling Galactic Unitime SleekT 44 may be not as technically advanced as a GPS-capable Seiko Astron, yet it clearly has mojo similar to the Swiss brand’s most iconic pilot’s watches issued in the 1950s. What is even more surprising is that all this mojo trickles out of this beautiful timekeeper in a subtle, deliciously refined way: something that we have rarely seen from Breitling during the last decade or two.
Overall Impression
Watches that can be referred to as “traveler’s companions” are gaining popularity and Breitling keeps expanding its line of worldtimers with new models. After the dressy Transocean Unitime Pilot, stylish (yet way too massive for a normal guy) Transocean Chronograph Unitime World Time, and absolutely (although predictably) outrageous Bentley B05 Unitime Chronograph, the legendary Swiss-based watchmaker introduces yet another member to the growing family of timepieces designed for persons who have more miles behind their backs than some astronauts.
Based on their earlier Galactic 44 Automatic Chronometer that the brand has introduced back in November 2014, this new version of the watch features a less rugged design: it is clear that the timepiece was created to suit needs of those who prefer a made-to-measure business suit to an airline pilot’s uniform.
Breitling is known for their extremely busy, even cluttered dials with lots of unnecessary elements, like logarithmic scales and all sorts of aviation-themed converters. With this new Galactic Unitime SleekT, the company really tried to keep things simple. It’s just a normal three-hander with a simple calendar and a simple city disk: the same that you can find in dozens of other luxury “worldtimers.” Even the dial is decorated in the same unimaginative way. Yes, the gadget may look boring for some, but at least it won’t take much time to learn how to operate this little beast.
Mechanism
While the three wristwatches mentioned in the first paragraph were powered by their in-house Caliber B05 automatic movement that featured chronograph functionality, this one is equipped with a simpler Caliber B35 that they, too, claim to manufacture on their own production facilities.
There is a mess with Breitling‘s current naming convention. While there has long been a Caliber B35, which is based on well-known ETA 2892 ebauche and features an add-on flyback chronograph module, this is clearly a new variety. Built on 41 jewels, it is larger by whole 11 millimeters in diameter and features impressive 70 hours of guaranteed power reserve. The amount of energy that it offers not only puts it on par with their relatively new Caliber B01, but also means that you can leave the watch in your desk or a chest of drawers on Friday night and get it out on Monday morning still ticking seconds of your life away.
As usual, the mechanism is certified by COSC as a chronometer and, as usual, I wouldn’t be too excited about it: it’s not that Swiss engineers carefully test each and every mechanism for its compliance with the standard, it’s more like that they are in the same ballpark for accuracy and quality.
Case
While the oversized 44 millimeter body with the signature wing-shaped crown guards and onion-shaped winding/setting crown is still here, the signature rotating bezel with its inevitable diving scale engraved over a machine-brushed surface was replaced for a mirror-polished polished part that is crafted from a lot denser tungsten (aka wolfram, you probably know it as the material of choice for making spirals of incandescent bulbs) alloy. Not only the rare metal is more scratch-resistant than 316L-grade steel that is normally used to make watch bodies, but it also looks extremely cooler with its well-polished dark grey surface. If matched by a black and grey dial that the brand prefers to call Trophy Black, the tungsten ring gives the watch an even more impressive appearance.
Dial
The “worldtimer” disk on this specimen looks exactly the same way as on other one made by Breitling: once home time is set, pull the crown to position “2” and keep turning the city disk until your current city of stay arrives at a position at 12 o’clock. The handy day/night indicator on the 24-hour chapter ring will tell you whether the time of day is set correctly so that the date indicator works the way that it should. From where I stand, the design is not as convenient than that an average GMT-capable timepiece has on offer, but it looks cool, I’ll give them that.
Bracelet
The only thing that I hate about this timekeeper is the traditional “Pilot” multilink bracelet that comes with the device. Although on computer renderings the strap looks great with its nicely polished elements, even the real life wrist-shot photo that was provided by Breitling shows quite honestly what a poor job it does in keeping the watch attached to your wrist. It may be as robust and dependable as a German executive sedan (the variety that was made back in the 1980s, of course), but it really cheapens the beautiful three-hander with its layout.
What the Galactic Unitime SleekT really needs is an Ocean Classic mesh steel bracelet or, if you prefer something more solid, a Navitimer bracelet that better matches the well-designed face of the timepiece. This is all purely subjective and you can take a nice black crocodile leather strap or even a textile NATO band. Just throw away that poor stock bracelet as long as you take the watch out of the presentation box, dammit!
WWR Verdict
Originality 4/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Versatility: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
See also: Breitling Transocean Chronograph 1915
Photos: Breitling
WWR preliminary verdict
Originality 4/5
Build quality: 5/5
Usability: 4/5
Legibility: 4/5
Value for money: 4/5
Breitling Galactic Unitime SleekT Automatic watch specification
Price: €8500 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Breitling B35, in-house, COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 41
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 70 hours
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, multiple time zones
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Tungsten
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 44.00 mm
Case height: 15.30 mm
Lug width: 22/20 mm
Dial: Antarctica White / Trophy black
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Stainless steel Pilot multi-link bracelet
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective on both sides, cambered
Case back: Screw-in