First announced in January 2019 days before SIHH 2019 show, the new Oris Dive Control Chronograph (ref. 01 774 7727 7784-Set) offers a blend of a great caliber, interesting exterior, and an overall flamboyant attitude of a heavy-weight boxing champion delivered in a single -albeit slightly overpriced- package.
I don’t like the direction the ProDiver collection is taking with their recent bunch of “professional” diving companions.
My idea of an Oris diver has always been personified by their iconic 2009 ProDiver Chronograph that, too, was offered in a lightweight titanium case. The combination of signature bullet-shaped hands and hour markers, as well as an easily recognizable profile of the rotating bezel made the ProDiver a distinctive timekeeper: it didn’t take much time to tell any member of the collection from any other diving wristwatch rated for 500-1000 meters of water resistance.
With the last members of the family, including this Dive Control Chronograph, Oris has introduced a number of cosmetic differences that, however minor they were ripped the watch of a huge part of its identity. Yes, the watch is still easy to read and its overall ergonomics -at least, for a 51mm behemoth- is still above all praise (and it also looks great, mind you,) but the soul of the original ProDiver is gone.
Case, Ergonomics & Strap
The “Versatility” value of the gadget’s rating was hurt by gargantuan size of the 51mm case: you have to be an eccentric person to wear this gadget with anything more formal than a professional diving suit or, for a more casual attire, a pair of blue jeans and a sheepskin bomber jacket. Yet, I have an impression that the Dive Control Chronograph -as well as its numerous “professional” siblings- was designed with eccentric persons -and collectors- in mind, and their definition of versatility may be different than mine. Still, only two and a half stars out of five for this beast in this department.
The case is also terribly thick at more than 20 millimeters from top to bottom. About 2/5 of its overall thickness coming courtesy of the unidirectional rotating ceramic bezel that houses a sapphire crystal thick enough to withstand 100 ATM of pressure this watch is officially rated for.
Timekeepers of these heroic proportions are normally heavy as a fish tank full of water. When it comes to this behemoth, the problem is partially remedied by the choice of lightweight titanium alloy it is fashioned from (the same material was also used for the folding clasp, although the crown and chronograph pushpieces are crafted from DLC-treated steel.) The black DLC coating on its surfaces not only makes the watch look cool, but also does a good job at protecting the soft metal from minor dings and scratches.
From the point of view of ergonomics, the watch is good. Everything is good about it. The setting crown offers good grip, while the chunky chronograph push-pieces are comfortable to operate. The lugs are short making the Dive Control Chronograph just a tad longer than a normal “large” wristwatch. The points where the straps are attached to the body are moved as close to the bottom as possible making the timepiece sit snug on a normal wrist.
What I am not happy about is the choice of straps. The waterproof presentation box that this device comes in contains only a 26mm black rubber strap, and a complementary yellow strap molded from the same material: no bracelet here, sorry. To make changing the strap a bit easier, Oris put in the same box their traditional strap-changing tool.
The problem here is that, unlike their Culture and Aviation collections, Oris divers feature non-standard lugs that make it difficult to find a third-party replacement strap when the original one finally cracks or if you love the watch itself, but just hate the feel of silicon or rubber against your skin, especially in winter. In most cases, your choice will be reduced either to getting a standard 26mm leather strap and then cutting it to fit or, preferably, ordering a custom job from a reputable person or brand. In any case, this $5k wristwatch gets even more expensive. The same goes for bracelets, although they are even more expensive to customize in order to fit the lugs. NATO / Zulu straps are out of the question.
The Dive Control Chronograph may look outrageous, yet the caliber that powers this monster is an ordinary Sellita SW500 chronograph. Fine-tuned to the Swiss brand’s specs and equipped with the traditional red Oris oscillating weight, it was renamed as Cal. 774. Being a replacement for the iconic ETA Valjoux 7750, the mechanism is built on the same 25 jewels and beats at 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, although the guaranteed 48 hours of power reserve give it a significant edge over the older engine for persons who don’t plan to keep the watch in a daily rotation.
That’s basically all that needs to be said about the caliber besides the fact that it also powers their 2014 TT3 Darryl O’Young, the 2013 Calobra limited edition models, as well as dozens of other Oris-branded chronographs. It is as blunt and boring as the gadget’s exterior is eccentric and outrageous, which is great: in this price range you don’t want to get yourself a watch with a rare and fragile caliber that requires the device to be stored in a controllable and safe environment: preferably a bank vault.
Dial & Legibility
Chronograph dials often look busy and cluttered. This one, however, is surprisingly easy to read with every element logically sized and painted. The ProDiver is one of the few watches that doesn’t make you guess position of the seconds hand: it is of the same white color as the hour and minute indicators, while the chronograph totalizers are bright yellow, as is the diving timer on the black ceramic bezel.
Legibility score would be even better if the sapphire crystal over the date aperture was equipped with a fisheye magnifying lens, but the lack of said lens is just a minor annoyance, nothing more.
Pricing & Availability
The watch was revealed not long ago, but is already available for preorder at a price of CHF 4850 (approx. $4900 USD,) although some US-based retailers ask as much as $6500 for this beast. From where I stand, the watch is a bit on a pricey side of the ballpark, but, hey, it’s a limited edition model with no more than 500 pieces to ever enter circulation that make it more valuable for collector and diving enthusiasts alike.
Build Quality: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4/5
Value for Money: 4/5
Overall Rating: 4/5
Oris Dive Control Chronograph Limited Edition (ref. 01 774 7727 7784-Set) Automatic watch specification
Price: CHF 4850 (MSRP)
Movement: Oris Caliber 774 (based on Sellita SW500,) Swiss Made
Movement finish: Red “Oris” oscillating weight
Number of Jewels: 25
Cadence of Balance: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: Approx. 48 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date
Case Material: Titanium, black DLC treatment
Bezel Material: Matches case
Crown: Stainless steel
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 51.00 mm
Case height: 21.00 mm
Lug width: 26.00 mm
Dial: Black with Yellow accents
Hour markers: Luminous, applied
Water resistance: 1000 meters
Strap: 26 mm black rubber strap with black DLC titanium folding clasp; extra yellow strap and a strap-changing tool
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective coating, domed
Case back: Solid, engraved