The new Hermes Heure H Tres Grand (ref. 036929WW00) that was recently presented by the French fashion brand keeps exploring a somewhat trite theme of H-shaped cases.
Initial Impressions
Of course, it is not the first time that the luxury goods maker introduces an H-shaped timepiece.
The H-Shaped Case
If you spend a couple of minutes doing a quick search on eBay, you will find a number of Hermes-branded watches that have their horns stylized in such a way as to represent the Latin letter “H” that the brand’s name begins with.
Some of the earlier examples of the approach (like, for instance, the already out-of-stock Ref. HR1.210.230/UBC) look downright banal, while others are just okay.
This new Hermes Heure H Tres Grand (like, as matter of fact, all of their current Heure H line of similarly styled watches that is evenly distributed from small to this, relatively large one, models,) however, looks a lot more appealing if not particularly interesting.
Probably, the reason for yours truly being mildly impressed by this new model has something to do with a set of subtle touches expertly applied here and there by something that looks like a skilled -albeit lacking particular love for the product per se- hand of a good designer.
The Dial
Of course, the well-decorated dial also played a big role here. Hermes is known for laconic approach to design and they didn’t deviate from the chosen path with this model.
The square guilloche pattern, the boxy Arabic numerals, and the perfectly executed sword-shaped hour and minute hands make the watch laconic and extremely dressy at the same time.
Of course, the dial is not just elegant. With its high-contrast layout, easily readable interface (a rare thing for a fashion product), and sapphire crystal coated with an anti-reflective film, it is adequately legible at good lighting conditions.
My only complaint here is the small date window: you will have to really try to read the numbers through the tiny window. Well, that and also the lack of Superluminova: the nighttime legibility is not bad because it simply doesn’t exist.
The Luxurious Strap
I don’t like to use adjectives like that because they are usually reserved for press releases, but Barenia leather is just so soft and pleasant to the touch, that melt a little every time I hold it in my hands.
The leather strap sports the usual contrast stitching and comes with a nice stainless steel safety deployant clasp, both adding greatly to the overall refined elegance of the Heure H Tres Grand.
The Caliber
According to the French fashion brand, the device is powered by an automatic caliber created by the Swiss manufacture Vaucher.
Hermes didn’t care to tell us the actual name of the movement. However, right now they only have two calibers made in collaboration with Vaucher. Between the two, only one completely matches the layout of the dial and overall dimensions of the watch.
I am talking about the Caliber H1837, of course. The mechanism is based on a relatively new Vaucher caliber VMF3002. It features a double barrel design that increases the power reserve to 50 hours while keeping the frequency at the standard 28,800 vph.
Among other distinct features, the H1837 / VMF3002 sports a variable-inertia balance wheel. Offering superior timekeeping ability, the design isn’t new, but it’s normally reserved for high-end watchmaking and it’s kind of surprising to see it in a watch that costs around $2500 at current exchange rate.
Although most of you probably never heard about such a business entity as Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, it is, in fact, a serious maker of mechanical calibers.
Re-established in 2003, split from Parmigiani Fleurier and partly owned by Hermes, the Manufacture sells its movements to such well-known luxury brands as Parmigiani itself, Corum, Richard Mille, Bulova, and other big names in the industry.
WWR’s Verdict
Originality 4/5
Versatility: 3/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 3.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 0/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5
See also: Hermes Cape Cod Tonneau Bleu de Malte
Photos: Hermes, Vaucher
Hermes Heure H Tres Grand 036929WW00 specification
Price: €2300 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Vaucher, Swiss Made
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Power reserve: 50 hours
Case: Stainless steel
Shape: H-shaped
Bezel shape: Square
Size: 32.00 mm x 32.00 mm
Dial: White, guilloche
Numerals: Arabic
Hands: Sword-shaped
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Hermes Barenia leather strap with safety deployant clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Back: Sapphire