Claimed to be inspired by military-style watches that Glycine produced during World War II, this oversized KMU 48 (ref. 3905.99AT.LB90) model has been here for ages.

From time to time, the company refreshes the range with new versions, new finishes, and new materials, even including such high-tech ones as carbon fiber. Featuring the same oversized steel case with black PVD treatment, and a refreshed dial, this Glycine KMU 48 Black is the new big thing in all meanings of this word.

First Impressions

The Layered Dial

The first thing that captured my attention here is, of course, the “layer-cake”, Panerai-style dial.

The upper matte-black layer sports the characteristic cut-outs for the slightly oversized Arabic numerals and dot-shaped hour markers. The lower layer, which is painted with an unspecified luminous substance (possibly, some greenish Superluminova) provides the dial with some nice visual depth.

Besides looking cool and giving some extra justification to the heavy price tag, the design also significantly increases the gadget’s legibility both at night and in broad daylight. Even the relatively thin diamond-shaped hour and minute hands don’t hurt it much.

To make the dial look more proportional, the Swiss designers equipped it with an extra-long subsidiary seconds hand that is almost half as long as the hour hand.

I didn’t like the way they decorated the sub-dial when I first saw the watch. Yet, I must admit that it’s growing on me at the very moment I am typing these words.

Given the enormous size of that thing, it is only just that it sports a contrast, negative-style color scheme, challenging the main display, and throwing the gauntlet right into its face.

The Pocket-Watch Movement

The “48” part in the Glycine KMU 48 Black name is, of course, the diameter of the gargantuan case. Kind of unexpectedly, the timekeeper’s size seriously limits the brand’s choice of a caliber that would look good inside this monster.

Like, most ETA blank movements that are available today are relatively small because they were designed to power watches from 33 to, maybe, 43 millimeters in diameter. In a case this large a standard ETA caliber would probably look like Flavio Baccianini at that Mr. Olympia show (no offense intended, big fan by the way.)

So, choosing the hand-wound Unitas cal. 6497 that was specifically designed to power pocket watches was a no-brainer. At about 37 millimeters in diameter, it fit quite nicely inside the case. The bezel surrounding the sapphire case back cover is just thick enough to give you a perfect view of the movement without making it look weird.

Being big has its own set of advantages. For example, it can house bigger spring-barrel with a longer spring that, combined with a relatively slow-beating balance of just 21,000 vibrations per hour increased the available power reserve to roughly 46 hours. You would still have to wind it after about 44 hours because they tend to get slower the more the spring unwinds, but it’s not bad at all.

With a height of around 10 millimeters, the KMU 48 looks slim, however, it still remains VERY large. I saw a number of wrist shots of its siblings hugging some skinny wrists and in many cases, the owner of this thing didn’t look impressive at all.

So, as usual, if you want to own this model (and it indeed looks terrific), don’t be lazy to visit your local dealer or a watch boutique and try this beast on your hand.

Limited to only 250 pieces and given a relatively affordable price tag of just $2000, the KMU 48 Black will soon become a rare collector’s item. Which is a pity, we need more of these monsters in the wild.

WWR Verdict

Originality 4.5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 5/5
Value for Money: 3.5/5
Overall Rating: 4.5/5

Photos: Glycine Watches

Glycine KMU 48 Black 3905.99AT.LB90 specification

Price: $2000 (Retail)
Movement: Hand-wound, caliber Unitas 6497, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 17
Movement frequency: 21,600 vph
Power reserve: 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Case: Stainless steel, black PVD
Shape: Round
Size: 48.00 mm
Dial: Black
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Steel, luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Black leather strap with grey stitching
Crystal: Mineral
Back: Transparent