The Italian-based fashion and jewelry brand Bulgari keeps adding new exclusive models to its elegant Diagono collection. Trying to keep their accessories as upscale as practically possible, the brand issues this Diagono Retrograde Moonphase (ref. DGP42BGLDMP) in an almost prohibitively priced massive rose gold case that features their own self-winding movement. Coming as a -relatively- limited-edition model and featuring their traditional exaggerated design, it will possibly sell off fast thanks to its brief, but dramatic cameo on Robert Downey Jr’s wrist at the latest Iron Man blockbuster.
This time it is an automatic watch with the BVL 347 retrograde automatic movement and calendar and moon phase complication, which is developed in-house (probably, their Gerald Genta sub-brand that has great experience in designing all sorts of complications with the trendy retrograde indication.).
Encased in a medium-sized 42mm body crafted from alternately brushed and polished 18K rose gold, the mechanism comprises 347 parts (hence the name) and is adorned with the usual Cotes de Geneve stripes and the inevitable circular-graining.
This elegant timepiece features an exquisite, multiple-texture dial and a fresh-looking retrograde moon-phase indicator.
While customary moon-phase watches usually indicate the moon month with a rotating disc, this one simply displays the nine fixed phases: waning (dark moon, waning crescent, last quarter, waning gibbous, and full moon) and waxing (waxing gibbous, first quarter, waxing crescent, and new moon.)
The phases are indicated with a skeletonized retrograde hand that travels through the waxing phases, then instantly returns to the “zero” position, while the moon-phase wheel jumps to the waning phases, then the cycle repeats itself.
Well, at least, the complication looks original and not as boring as the traditional ways to show the lunar cycle.
Just as you can see on the photos (and in the recent “Iron Man” blockbuster featuring Robert Downey, Jr. playing a self-made billionaire-turn-superhero Tony Stark), the other two retrograde dials at 9 and 3 o’clock show the day of the week and the date respectively.
Thanks to the winning combination of satin-finished rose gold hands, Arabic numerals and hour markers, and matte-black finish, the dial offers you not only great looks but also brings an almost unrivaled level of legibility.
Well, at least during the daytime, since, lacking any lume whatsoever, its readings will be completely indiscernible even in twilight, not to say of total darkness.
On the other hand, this is not a “tactical” watch, so you can easily sacrifice night-time legibility in favor of sheer beauty.
Bulgari will manufacture only 300 examples of the Diagono Retrograde Moonphase.
Bvlgari Diagono Retrograde Moonphase (ref. DGP42BGLDMP) specification
Price range: $45,600 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Bvlgari caliber BVL347 with 46 jewels, Swiss Made
Complications: Date, day of the week, moon phase, retrograde
Power reserve: 44 hours
Case: 18K rose gold
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Dial: Black, decorated with Perlage and Traits Tires treatment
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Brown alligator strap with an 18K rose gold buckle