Just like the recently unveiled Daniel Roth Grande Lune, the new Bulgari Papillon Chronograph in Rose Gold (ref. BRRP46C14GLCHP) is a refreshed and rebadged version of the original chronograph that was introduced in 2008 by Daniel Roth. If you happened to live under the proverbial rock during the last year, then I have to inform you with the deepest regret that the Italian fashion house finally decided to completely absorb the Swiss-based brand and gradually start selling their iconic models under its own trademark. Well, there goes another legend.
Whether we like it or not, consolidation is a natural process: to reduce expenses, reach a broader audience, and being more able to compete with other conglomerates, brands tend to flock together. Sometimes, a weaker brand is ditched into the abyss of oblivion when it takes just too much effort to promote their products however brilliant they are, but that’s how things work, sorry.
Presented in a large 44-millimeter body, which is currently available only in 18-karat rose gold, the new-old offering from the Italian jewelry brand is identical to its predecessor. At least, it is identical when it comes to gears and pinions stuffed into the oversized body.
On the exterior, it is the same old Paillon, but with a facelift that is more in line with Bulgari’s, um, corporate styling. The new split-level dial with rose gold inserts looks refreshingly three-dimensional and surprisingly legible if compared to the original.
The original Daniel Roth Papillon Chronograph featured a white-on-white gold color combination that used to put some unwanted strain on the owner’s eyes. A thick blue line for the minute retrograde indicator and all five hands of the same color didn’t help much to make the dial more readable: it still looked visually cluttered and messy.
The new rose gold-on-brown color theme helps one visually separate the two chapter rings for the minutes and seconds sections of the dial. The jumping hour display with black Arabic numerals engraved on white-lacquered background clearly stands out and is visually supported by the upper half of the dial that sports the same finishing.
The only problem here is the chronograph central second hand, which is lost on the brown and rose gold dial.
Anyway, the rose-gold version of the Papillon Chronograph looks like a highly desirable timepiece that will look good on just about any wrist with just about any dress. I can easily imagine myself wearing one either with dark-colored business attire or with blue jeans and a white T-shirt.
See also: Daniel Roth Papillon Chronograph
Photos: Bulgari / Daniel Roth
Bvlgari Papillon Chronograph in Rose Gold (ref. BRRP46C14GLCHP) specification
Price range: Around €50,000 depending on local taxes
Movement: Caliber DR2319, automatic, based on Frederic Piguet movement with exclusive Daniel Roth complication, Swiss Made
Cadence of balance: 21,600 vph
Complications: Jumping hours, retrograde minute hands, chronograph
Power reserve: 38 hours
Case: 18-karat Rose gold
Shape: Tonneau / Ellipsocurvex
Size: 44.00 mm
Dial: Split-level, white-lacquered and black gold satin-brushed
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown Alligator strap with a triple-blade rose gold folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective