A New Must-Have: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

Always thought that only Fender can randomly shuffle bodies and necks of radically different classic guitars and get away with that? Well, maybe you should think again. At Baselworld 2011, Rolex updated its Cosmograph Daytona collection with the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116515LN. The new model combines their signature Everose-alloy case with a black Cerachrom ceramic bezel: a mix that they never did before. And, yes: thanks to the winning combination of colors and textures, it does look fantastic!

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona: The Overall Impression

First introduced in early 1960s as a simple Cosmograph, it feels like the Cosmograph Daytona collection has been here forever. It never achieved the same “living legend” status as the Submariner, but it still a luxury chronograph of choice for the people who can actually afford one.

Pros: It’s the definition of a dressy sports watch. Reliable and accurate Caliber 413 movement. COSC-certified chronometer.
Cons: Prohibitively expensive at €26,400.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116515LN

This 116515LN is no exception here.

It is tasteful, elegant, and relatively versatile. It is also powered by a great, COSC-certified chronograph caliber. Of course, there are some minor issues with the overall legibility due to the chosen color scheme, but it’s still pretty good for a sporty dress watch.

The only thing that will scare away 99 percent of potential customers is the price.

The In-House Movement

Like the rest of the family, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is equipped with the Caliber 4130 automatic chronograph movement. Developed and manufactured solely in-house, the caliber is COSC-certified as a high-grade chronometer and is guaranteed to gain or lose no more than 2 seconds per day.

Caliber 4130
Caliber 4130 (Image credit: Rolex.com)

Making its first appearance in 2000, the mechanism replaced the Caliber 4030. Based on the high-speed Zenith El Primero cal. 400, it was heavily modified by Rolex to meet the new requirements. They decreased the speed from Zenith’s signature 36,000 vibrations per hour to standard 28,800 vph, added several “premium” components to increase accuracy, and increased the power reserve by a couple of hours.

The problem with the 4030 was that it was based on the technology from the same 1960s. The new one, developed with modern tools, materials and Rolex’s money, is just a better caliber.

There are several reasons for that.

First of all, it has an improved column-wheel design that allows for faster operation of the chronograph. Rolex claim that, with this watch, you can time different events with an accuracy of up to 1/8th of a second. Not that it matters much, but at least it partly justifies the outrageous price.

Rolex Caliber 4130 features a column-wheel chronograph module.

Second, Rolex is known for its extremely thorough quality control process that applies to each and every component of the watch in general and the mechanism in particular. The fact that there’s almost 60 percent less components also helps in making the mechanism more reliable.

Third, the key components are better. There’s an anti-magnetic Parachrom spring and it has more than adequate 72 hours (whole three days!) of power reserve, which makes it more practical for those who have several timekeepers in their weekly rotation.

Also (while I am not fond of that) some people like to actually feel the massive oscillating weight of the cal. 4130 doing its job behind (sigh) the solid case back cover.

The 40mm Case

The movement is neatly packed inside the familiar monoblock Everose case. About 40 mm in diameter and just over 12mm thick, it features the same elegant flowing lines as other members of the collection.

While a bit larger than an average ‘historic’ Rolex, the timekeeper is still whole two millimeters smaller than this year’s Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch.

If your wrist is on the skinnier side, it may look just a bit too massive to be worn comfortably. This is mainly due to relatively long lugs. Well, watches with a certain presence about them are still popular among enthusiasts and casuals alike, so I think the size of this is not going to be a problem for nine potential buyers out of ten.

At just over 12mm, the case isn't too thick.

As far as general styling goes, the only change to the familiar design seems to be the black Cerachrom ceramic bezel. Practically scratch-proof, the bezel has the standard tachymeter scale on it featuring a nice rose gold finish. As far as I understand, the scale was first engraved and then had several layer of rose gold vapor deposited in it.

The Dial

Also, nothing new here besides the colors.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona (brown chocolate dial, detail)

The model will be available in two versions differing only in the finishing of their dials. The one reviewed here will sport a chocolate brown dial and the other one will come with an ivory-colored face.

The black ceramic bezel works so well with the chocolate dial!

Both versions will be equipped with 18-karat rose gold hands filled with luminous substance. However, the chocolate-brown dial looks the most appealing here. I mean, just look at those gold Arabic numerals treated with black PVD! Aren’t they striking the sweetest chord with the piano-black ceramic bezel?

The Pricing

This is where things go kind of bad.

In Europe, the 116515LN will be offered at a minimum recommended street price of €26,400: far from being “affordable” for an average enthusiast.

On paper, it is only a tad more expensive than a similarly specced high-grade chronograph (i.e. one with a combination of a medium-sized rose gold case, ceramic bezel, and a COSC-certified mechanism.) In reality, it is just out of reach for about 90 percent of current Rolex owners.

WWR’s Verdict

Originality 5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Versatility: 4.5/5
Usability: 5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5

Overall Rating: 5/5

See also: Glashutte Original Senator Navigator WorldView 39-47-07-07-04 Review

Photos: Rolex

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona 116515LN specification

Price: €26,400 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber 4130, 44 jewels, 28,800 vph, 30.50 mm in diameter, 6.50 mm in height, COSC-certified chronometer, in-house, Swiss Made
Movement decoration: Signed and numbered
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Power reserve: 72 hours

Case: Everose gold
Bezel: Black Cerachrom ceramic
Shape: Round
Size: 40.00 mm
Back: Screw-down with Rolex fluting
Water resistance: 100 meters

Dial: Ivory or Chocolate Brown
Numerals: Arabic
Hands: Gold
Crystal: Sapphire

Strap: Black alligator leather strap with an 18-karat Everose gold folding clasp and safety catch