This year JLC has updated its Perpetual Calendar collection with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual 40 (ref. Q1612520). Now available in an 18-karat rose gold case and still featuring the same sophisticated, slightly off-white dial with lots of sub-dials and other indicators, the timekeeper still makes a strong impression and maybe an interesting choice for a person looking for a dressy “complication” watch.
The main difference between the two models is, of course, the size of the body.
For years watches were growing in size from modest and elegant 38 millimeters in diameter to heavy-weight monstrosities up to 45 millimeters wide.
It seemed that there was no end to this trend, but, surprisingly, the last year the tide has turned and serious watchmakers started to re-introduce their most popular models in less intimidating bodies.
Since the dial basically remained the same (with only minor styling differences, but the same layout of numerous indicators and sub-dials,) the weight-loss program was limited to the timekeeper’s bezel. It has become visibly thinner, providing the watch with a more slender, more graceful appearance.
Judging by the official specs, the watch is still powered by the same JLC Caliber 876-440B hand-wound movement.
Featuring a twin-barrel design, the watch offers as many as 192 hours (8 days) of guaranteed power reserve, which is convenient for a piece that is supposed to be worn only on special occasions and cannot be placed into an automatic winder. In order to keep the watch running, you will only have to manually wind it just once a week.
JLC knows a thing or two about “interface design,” so, despite presenting a lot of information, the dial sports a highly legible layout.
At 1 o’clock there is a small Day/Night indicator that has a small aperture that turns red between 10 PM and 3 AM marking the time when cannot change the date without risk of damaging the movement.
The date, month and day of week sub-dials are placed at 3, 6 and 9 hours respectively. As you can see on the photos, the day of week sub-dial shares its space with the moon-phase indicator. Regrettably, the latter displays the current phase of the moon with a simple hand making the whole display a lot less spectacular.
Of course, there is also a power reserve indicator at 11 o’clock, as well as a four-digit year indicator between 7 and 8 hours.
See also: Glashutte Original Senator Perpetual Calendar (refs. 100-02-22-12-05, 100-02-25-05-04 & 100-02-25-05-05)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual 40 (ref. Q1612520) specification
Price: $34,000 (MSRP)
Movement: Hand-wound, JLC Caliber 876-440B, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 46
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Movement decoration: Crafted and decorated by hand
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, date, month, year, moon phase, power reserve, day/night
Power reserve: 192 hours (8 days)
Case: 18-karat rose gold
Size: 40.00 mm
Case height: 6.60 mm
Hour markers: Rose gold
Hands: Rose gold
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Brown leather strap
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective