Omega Speedmaster, the legendary “space” chronograph that never seems to be getting old, has recently been reintroduced as a two-tone model and also slightly refreshed. Available with at least two dials and two colors of 18-carat gold alloy, the new Omega Speedmaster 57 (ref. 3184.108.40.206.01.001) version of the watch looks more in line with their current product range.
Although the Speedmaster was always associated with tri-compax dial layouts, a couple of years ago the Swiss watchmaker has introduced their own Omega caliber Co-Axial 9300 in-house movement that allowed it to radically change the design of the watch. Now, its single chronograph sub-dial (it is located at 3 o’clock) combines a 12-hour and a 60 minute chronograph hands, while the other sub-dial, which is placed at 9 hours, is reserved for a nicely executed small seconds indicator.
Both sub-dials nicely balance each other reflecting both the symmetric Ω symbol and a double-dot hour marker at 12 hours.
As usual, the watch sports a tachymeter scale on its thin fixed bezel. While in most timekeepers the scale looks more annoying than entertaining, this one looks absolutely organic: mainly because the Speedmaster, like current Breitling chronographs with their inevitable slide rules, is always associated with a tachymeter decorating its busy dial.
Compared to the last year’s Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Ref. 3220.127.116.11.01.001 (and, probably, reflecting current trends), the new Omega Speedmaster 57 is considerably smaller.
Its stainless steel body with long integrated lugs is only 41.5 millimeters in diameter that finally allows you to wear the watch with formal attire without looking eccentric. The polished/brushed surface of the grey metal is nicely accented with either rose or yellow gold elements of the bezel, bracelet links, chronograph push-pieces, and, of course, the slightly oversized setting crown.
And, while the version at the top of the article looks dressier (and, perhaps, a tad more legible), the one with yellow gold accents and silvery grey dial is certainly the most well-balanced and, well, even noble, if you please.
As far as pricing goes, Omega plans to offer a number of references with the least expensive ref. 318.104.22.168.01.001 on leather strap starting at $11,000, versions on brushed steel and two-tone gold/steel bracelets will be a bit more expensive.
The price, while clearly not set with Mr. Average Joe in mind, looks competitive enough, especially if you compare it to a two-tone Breitling Navitimer with similar functionality, especially if you take into account Omega’s generally higher resale value and better overall build quality.
WWR preliminary verdict:
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Omega Speedmaster 57 Two-Tone Automatic watch specification
Price: $11,000 (ref. 322.214.171.124.01.001, MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber Co-Axial 9300, two spring barrels, silicon balance spring, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 39
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 60 hours
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Rose gold / Yellow gold
Crown material: Matches bezel
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 41.50 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: No data
Dial: Black / Silver
Hour markers: Luminous, Yellow or Rose gold
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Two-tone steel/gold bracelet, Leather strap
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective
Case back: Sapphire