Based on one of their models from 1950s, the 2014 limited edition Longines Conquest Heritage 1954-2014 comes in a compact 35-millimeter case which is available not only in an expensive rose or yellow gold but also in a lot more affordable stainless steel. Combine it with a nice business dress and you have a clear winner.
Omega Speedmaster, the legendary “space” chronograph that is never getting old, has recently been reintroduced as a “two-tone” model and also slightly refreshed. Available with at least two dials and two colors of 18-karat gold alloy, the 2013 Omega Speedmaster 57 (ref. 3184.108.40.206.01.001) is more in line with their current product range.
Patek Philip‘s classic Calatrava line has just been updated for this year. Featuring a tried and true automatic movement and a body of classic proportions, the new self-winding Patek Philippe Calatrava (Ref. 5227) looks emphatically modest, even in its precious 18-karat rose gold body.
With the new Raymond Weil 35th Anniversary Maestro Full Calendar (Ref. 12849 G 00659), the watchmaker offers yet another generic timekeeper at a ridiculously high price. Although the brand has been in business since 1976 (it is just a couple of years younger than yours truly,) there is something fundamentally unhealthy with their self-esteem.
Celebrating its 130th year in business, the Japanese jewelry and precision instruments-maker has presented its new Grand Seiko 130th Anniversary Limited Edition (refs. SBGW033, SBGW040, and SBGW039) collection, which is going to be available both in Europe and North America. Looking like it’s having the legendary Patek Philippe Calatrava line of minimalistic dress watches in its fine crosshairs, the new Commemorative Edition makes a subtle, but very firm stress on the “Grand” part of Grand Seiko brand.
Urban Juergensen dates its history back to 1773 (although I suspect that the company initially had a different name and was re-christened somewhere along the road: after all Urban Juergensen is the name of a Danish master-watchmaker who was born in 1776, started his career in Le Locle, Switzerland, and even worked at houses of Abraham Louis Breguet in Paris, and John Arnold in London; I am still not sure whether he had any relationship with the company that inherited its name.) Soon, the brand will unveil their new hand-wound Urban Juergensen Chronometre P8 Avec Echappement a Detente, which is equipped with a modified pivoted detent escapement. Their revolutionary design significantly increases the accuracy of a mechanical caliber.
At the Baselworld 2011 show, the young master-watchmaker Stefan Kudoke has presented his extensively skeletonized Kudoke KudOktopus model. Featuring a vintage movement that was elaborately cut to resemble a giant octopus, the timepiece would probably easily compete even with made-to-order timepieces from Grieb & Benzinger… if only it was equipped with a higher-grade caliber.
The 2009 Gerald Genta Octo Tourbillon Sunray (ref. OTR.Y.20.925.CN.BD) brings you an unusually styled yellow gold case combined with a complicated automatic caliber featuring a finely executed tourbillon escapement. Of course, the most interesting part of this watch is neither its brutal body nor the mechanism (although the tourbillon does look like a real piece of art), it is the dial with its two squares (one for hours and the other for minutes) and an octagon that gets the lion’s share of attention here. Looking like an ancient puzzle box, the part makes a strong, almost (vaguely) frightening impression when the first time you see it.
The German brand has unveiled the revolutionary A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk in May 2009. At that time, it was one of their most daring and controversial (as well as immensely beautiful from the point of view of pure engineering) models. Not as deliberately high-tech as some wristwatches made by, say, Louis Moinet -another brand that is known for its audacious approach to industrial design- this “digital” timekeeper attracted a lot of attention even before it went on sale later that year.
The 2009 Patek Philippe Calatrava Officier Ref. 5153J was officially introduced in March 2009 during the annual Baselworld 2009 international trade show. Presented in a yellow gold case, the 5153J features the usual sober dial layout and is equipped with an elegant “hunter” back cover. Previously, a mandatory feature of a “trench watch,” the engraved cover makes this new collection a nice (although quite expensive for a simple three-hander) present for a West Point graduate.