The legendary “space” chronograph has recently been reintroduced as a “two-tone” model and also slightly refreshed. Available with at least two dials and two colors of 18-karat gold alloy, the 2013 Omega Speedmaster 57 (331.22.42.51.01.001) is more in line with their current product range.
Although the Speedmaster was always associated with tri-compax dial layouts, a couple of years ago the Swiss watchmaker introduced their own in-house Omega caliber Co-Axial 9300 that allowed it to radically change the exterior. Now, there are only two sub-dials.
The first one is the single chronograph counter. Located at 3 o’clock, it combines a 12-hour and 60-minute chronograph hands into a single easy-to-read display.
The other sub-dial, which is placed at 9 hours, is the traditional small seconds hand indicator.
Both sub-dials nicely balance each other reflecting both the symmetric Ω symbol and a double-dot hour marker at 12 hours.
As usual, the watch sports a tachymeter scale on its thin fixed bezel.
While in most timekeepers the scale looks more annoying than entertaining, this one looks absolutely organic. It’s mainly because, just like current Breitling chronographs with their inevitable slide rules, the Speedmaster must have a tachymeter on its busy dial.
Compared to the last year’s 2012 Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph (and, probably, reflecting current trends), the new Omega Speedmaster 57 is considerably smaller.
Its stainless steel body with long integrated lugs is only 41.5 millimeters in diameter which finally allows you to wear the watch with formal attire without looking eccentric.
The polished/brushed surface of the grey metal is nicely accented with either rose or yellow gold elements of the bezel, bracelet links, chronograph push-pieces, and, of course, the slightly oversized setting crown.
And, while the version at the top of the article looks dressier (and, perhaps, a tad more legible), the one with yellow gold accents and the silvery grey dial is certainly the most well-balanced and, well, even noble, if you please.
As far as pricing goes, Omega plans to offer several versions of the Speedmaster 57.
As usual, the least expensive will be a version on a leather strap (ref. 331.22.42.51.01.001) on leather strap. At the moment of me publishing this brief review, it is starting at $11,000. Of course, the versions with brushed steel and two-tone gold/steel bracelets will be more expensive.
The price, while not set with Mr. Average Joe in mind, doesn’t look particularly crazy. It even looks competitive if you compare it to a two-tone Breitling Navitimer with similar functionality, and take into account Omega’s generally higher resale value and better overall build quality.
See also: Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph
Photos: Omega
WWR’s verdict:
Originality 5/5
Build quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Legibility: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Overall Rating: 5/5
Omega Speedmaster 57 Two-Tone specification
Price: $11,000 (ref. 331.22.42.51.01.001, MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber Co-Axial 9300, two spring barrels, silicon balance spring, in-house, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 39
Cadence of balance: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 60 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Case: Stainless steel
Bezel and Bezel: Rose gold / Yellow gold
Shape: Round
Size: 41.50 mm
Dial: Black / Silver
Hour markers: Luminous, Yellow, or Rose gold
Hands: Luminous
Crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective
Back: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Two-tone steel/gold bracelet, Leather strap