When it comes to wristwatches, a name says it all. I mean, what part of Girard-Perregaux Traveller Large Date, Moon Phases & GMT a person with an IQ just slightly above that of an average bath rug wouldn’t understand? However, when it comes to timekeepers issued by GP, there is much more to them than just a list of features. What you get, is an extremely finely crafted accessory that features a level of refinement that you will rarely meet even in its price range.
The 2014 Girard-Perregaux Dual Time, which is delivered in a rose gold body with a choice of two dials in vintage ‘Off-White’ (ref. 49544-52-131-BBB0) and more modern ‘Anthracite Gray’ (ref. 49544-52-231-BB60) colors, offers that killer combination of great, well-designed exterior and reliable, time-proven automatic movement that only brands of this caliber can achieve. Although the complication itself is not rare (and I am putting it mildly), and its realization is not terribly innovative, the final product still makes a strong impression.
Whole 46 millimeters in diameter, the Edox Geoscope GMT (ref. 07002 3 C1) is designed with heroically proportioned people in mind. On the other hand (no pun intended), the timekeeper doesn’t make an impression of a watch whose single purpose is to look big. In fact, its massiveness stems from its function: there is a dial that needs to be large to ensure adequate legibility and so there is a large case to house it. That’s probably the main reason why it doesn’t look stupid: its form follows function.
The Saint Honore Worldcode GMT (ref. 868507 76NIR) makes an impression of a well-designed watch with every bit of its surface carefully thought over by real professionals. Its shape is traditional, but not generic. Its textures are brutal, but not crude. It is functional, but won’t overwhelm you with unnecessary features. Its only drawback is the movement that powers it, but lots of people won’t even notice it.
As usual for the French brand, the Hermes Dressage L’Heure Masque offers a compelling mixture of an innovative movement, fine design, and a good taste. Although some purists may still sneer at their timepieces, there are in fact very few ‘fashion’ watches that can rival its refinement and ingenuity of its design.
Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar (ref. T091.420.46.051.01) packs the usual (at least, for the family) mix of functions into a lightweight titanium body that combines finely brushed surfaces with black PVD inserts. While the watch neither looks as rugged as a “real” training computer designed for hard-core athletes, nor sports as advanced functionality, it is still sturdy enough to be used as a daily beater by those who prefer an active lifestyle to countless hours spent on a sofa in front of a 55-inch TV set.
With its massive body looking like it was machined out of a 22-inch light-alloy disk, the new Breitling for Bentley GMT Light Body B04 will surprise you with its lightness and superb ergonomics. However, if a Bentley Continental GT is not the “other” car you use for going shopping at the time when your Mulsanne is at the dealership for scheduled maintenance, this new watch may be a bit too expensive for the combination of features and materials that it features.
Ulysse Nardin has been shipping its GMT-enabled Dual Timers for quite a while now and they must enjoy good sales if the model is reborn year after year trying to satisfy different tastes and budgets. However, this new dressy Ulysse Nardin Dual Time Manufacture radically differs from previous iterations. The difference is not limited to just the styling of its case and the dial: while its numerous predecessors were equipped with the self-winding Caliber UN-24, which is basically an inexpensive ETA 2892-A2 movement with an add-on module, this particular timekeeper that was presented at the Baselworld 2014 trade show is now equipped with their own UN-334 Manufacture mechanism. As the name implies, the movement is crafted solely in-house.
During Baselworld 2014, Tissot put on display a number of nice collections that make absolutely clear that Tissot is serious about increasing its market share when it comes to “affordable” watches. Among the new products, they have officially presented their T-Race Touch Aluminium (ref. T081.420.97.057.03)
It pays off to be a Swiss air force pilot. While most aerobatics teams barely receive even sporadic attention of major watchmaking brands, Switzerland’s only team of professional pilots gets its name immortalized the third time in less than three years. Back in 2011, Oris and IWC commemorated the 20th anniversary of their current paint scheme and now Breitling, another key watchmaker, celebrates the semicentenary of the team itself. Ladies and gentlemen, meet the new Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT Patroulle Suisse 50th Anniversary automatic chronograph with second time zone indication.