The 2014 Girard-Perregaux Dual Time, which is delivered in a rose gold body with a choice of two dials in vintage ‘Off-White’ (ref. 49544-52-131-BBB0) and more modern ‘Anthracite Gray’ (ref. 49544-52-231-BB60) colors, offers that killer combination of great, well-designed exterior and reliable, time-proven automatic movement that only brands of this caliber can achieve. Although the complication itself is not rare (and I am putting it mildly), and its realization is not terribly innovative, the final product still makes a strong impression.
There are hundreds, if not thousands of luxury timekeepers that offer that simple, yet useful complication that makes the life of a frequent traveler a tad easier. Thanks to ETA and its many competitors both from Europe and Japan, you only need to buy a mechanical base movement, slap a GMT add-on module atop of it, put inside a nice body, and off you go.
However, it is the brands like Girard-Perregaux that can make these highly utilitarian models truly shine: as many independents and daring startups learned the hard way, making a nice body with a mass-produced mechanism ticking inside it is just not enough.
Elegant and sober, yet energetic enough to be worn both with a blazer and a tuxedo, the device features a comfortable body with slightly elongated, gently curved lugs. Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the rose gold case precisely hits a sweet spot landing exactly between the “classic” 38-39 mm and “sporty” 42-44 mm sizes.
Its well-style bezel leaves enough air for the three-dimensional dial with its prominent rose gold hour markers and a pair leaf-shaped (I would probably call them “postmodern leaf-shaped”) hour and minute hands hovering over them at their own pace. The bright red, teardrop-shaped hand that indicates time in some other city of your choice on a traditional 24-hour scale is contrasted for superb legibility. It also has enough lume on its tip to be perfectly visible at night.
By the way, the pair of chronograph-like push-pieces at 2 and 4 hours are here to easily set the second time zone display, which makes this new GP Dual Time a true marvel of industrial design.
Well, as always, there is a tiny fly floating in this expensive ointment. The calendar sub-dial with its circular indicator looks a bit messy here, almost like an afterthought. The way it cuts through the graphite-colored 24-hour chapter ring almost hurts my eyes, although this is purely subjective. I am sure there are thousands of wealthy persons that will love this thing. The mere fact that Porsche A.G. somehow manages to sell dozens of thousand Panameras (a family of four-door sporty vehicles that was inspired by the infamous Hunchback of Notre-Dame as pictured in the 1996 Disney classics) proves my assumption quite easily.
The watch is powered by their new Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0094 automatic caliber. This is the same GP03300 tractor movement with an extra module sitting atop of it. So, expect the usual attention to details and impressive reliability.
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Girard-Perregaux Dual Time Automatic in Rose Gold specification
Price: €25,800 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0094, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 27
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone (GMT)
Case: Rose gold
Size: 40.00 mm
Dial: Anthracite / Off-white
Numerals: Arabic (24-hour GMT scale)
Hour markers: Applied
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown (49544-52-131-BBB0) or black (49544-52-231-BB60) alligator strap on rose gold pin buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective