The 2014 Girard-Perregaux Dual Time, which is delivered in a rose gold body with a choice of two dials in vintage ‘Off-White’ (ref. 49544-52-131-BBB0) and more modern ‘Anthracite Gray’ (ref. 49544-52-231-BB60) colors, offers that killer combination of great, well-designed exterior and a reliable, time-proven automatic movement that only brands of this caliber can achieve. Although the complication itself is not rare (and I am putting it mildly), and its realization is not terribly innovative, the final product still makes a strong impression.
There are hundreds, if not thousands of luxury timekeepers that offer that simple, yet useful complication that makes the life of a frequent traveler a tad easier. Thanks to ETA and its many competitors both from Europe and Japan, you only need to buy a mechanical base movement, slap a GMT add-on module atop it, put it inside a nice body, and off you go.
However, it is the brands like Girard-Perregaux that can make these highly utilitarian models truly shine: as many independents and daring startups learned the hard way, making a nice body with a mass-produced mechanism ticking inside it is just not enough.
Elegant and sober, yet energetic enough to be worn both with a blazer and a tuxedo, the device features a comfortable body with slightly elongated, gently curved lugs. Measuring 40 millimeters in diameter, the rose gold case precisely hits a sweet spot landing exactly between the “classic” 38-39 mm and “sporty” 42-44 mm sizes.
Its well-style bezel leaves enough air for the three-dimensional dial with its prominent rose gold hour markers and a pair of leaf-shaped (I would probably call them “postmodern leaf-shaped”) hour and minute hands hovering over them at their own pace. The bright red, teardrop-shaped hand that indicates the time in some other city of your choice on a traditional 24-hour scale is contrasted for superb legibility. It also has enough lume on its tip to be perfectly visible at night.
By the way, the pair of chronograph-like push-pieces at 2 and 4 hours are here to easily set the second time zone display, which makes this new GP Dual Time a true marvel of industrial design.
Well, as always, there is a tiny fly floating in this expensive ointment. The calendar sub-dial with its circular indicator looks a bit messy here, almost like an afterthought. The way it cuts through the graphite-colored 24-hour chapter ring almost hurts my eyes, although this is purely subjective. I am sure there are thousands of wealthy people that will love this thing. The mere fact that Porsche A.G. somehow manages to sell dozens of thousand Panameras (a family of four-door sporty vehicles that was inspired by the infamous Hunchback of Notre Dame as pictured in the 1996 Disney classics) proves my assumption quite easily.
The watch is powered by their new Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0094 automatic caliber. This is the same GP03300 tractor movement with an extra module sitting atop it. So, expect the usual attention to detail and impressive reliability.
Build quality: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5
Girard-Perregaux Dual Time Automatic in Rose Gold specification
Price: €25,800 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, caliber Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0094, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 27
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 46 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, second time zone (GMT)
Case: Rose gold
Size: 40.00 mm
Dial: Anthracite / Off-white
Numerals: Arabic (24-hour GMT scale)
Hour markers: Applied
Water resistance: 30 meters
Strap: Brown (49544-52-131-BBB0) or black (49544-52-231-BB60) alligator strap on rose gold pin buckle
Crystal: Sapphire, antireflective