With the new Bulgari Diagono Retrograde Moonphase, the legendary Italian fashion and jewelry brand Bulgari adds a new exclusive model to its elegant Diagono collection.
Trying to keep their accessories as upscale as practically possible, the brand issues this Diagono Retrograde Moonphase (ref. DGP42BGLDMP) in an almost prohibitively priced massive rose gold case that features their own self-winding movement. Coming as a -relatively- limited-edition model and featuring their traditional exaggerated design, it will possibly sell off (relatively) fast thanks to its brief, but dramatic cameo on Robert Downey Jr’s wrist.
This time it is a watch with the BVL 347 retrograde automatic movement. Featuring a calendar and moon phase complication, it is claimed to be developed solely in-house. The know-how, probably, comes courtesy of their Gerald Genta sub-brand that has great experience in designing all sorts of complications with the trendy retrograde indication.
The mechanism sits in a medium-sized 42mm body crafted from alternately brushed and polished 18K rose gold. The caliber comprises 347 parts (hence the name) and is sports a pretty generic (for the niche of ultra-luxury timekeepers, of course) finish with the usual Cotes de Geneve stripes and the inevitable circular-graining.
The Diagono Retrograde Moonphase’s exterior is not as avant-garde as that on the Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro GMT 1/2 Hour, of course. However, it still features an exquisitely finished, multiple-texture dial, and a fresh-looking retrograde moon-phase indicator.
While customary moon-phase watches usually indicate the moon month with a rotating disc, this one simply displays the nine fixed phases. There are both the waning (dark moon, waning crescent, last quarter, waning gibbous, and full moon) and the waxing (waxing gibbous, first quarter, waxing crescent, and new moon) phases.
The phases are indicated with a skeletonized retrograde hand that travels through the waxing phases, then instantly returns to the “zero” position. The moon-phase wheel jumps to the waning phases, then the cycle repeats itself.
Well, at least, the complication looks original and not as boring as the traditional ways to show the lunar cycle.
Just as you can see in the photos (and in the recent “Iron Man”), the other two retrograde dials at 9 and 3 o’clock show the day of the week and the date respectively.
Thanks to the winning combination of satin-finished rose gold hands, Arabic numerals and hour markers, and matte-black finish, the dial offers you not only great looks but also brings an almost unrivaled level of legibility.
Well, the “unrivalness “is mostly limited to the daytime and well-lit spaces. In the dark, or even twilight, it won’t that well. Lacking any luminous substance whatsoever, its readings will be almost indiscernible.
On the other hand, this is not a “tactical” watch, so you can easily sacrifice night-time legibility in favor of sheer beauty.
The company will only manufacture 300 examples of the Bulgari Diagono Retrograde Moonphase. Given the asking price, even that looks a tad optimistic, but I sincerely wish them all the luck.
See also: Patek Philippe 10 Day Tourbillon 5101R in rose gold
Photos: Bvlgari
Bvlgari Diagono Retrograde Moonphase DGP42BGLDMP specification
Price range: $45,600 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Bvlgari caliber BVL347 with 46 jewels, Swiss Made
Complications: Date, day of the week, moon phase, retrograde
Power reserve: 44 hours
Case: 18K rose gold
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Dial: Black, decorated with Perlage and Traits Tires treatment
Water resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Brown alligator strap with an 18K rose gold buckle
Crystal: Sapphire