Well, not “finally” finally. This is just another iteration of the last year’s Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley British Racing Green. The correct title would sound like “That’s Why This New Breitling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition Chronograph is One More Chance to Get Yourself a Bentley Watch You Can Wear,” yet it would be too long (and too clickbaity, we don’t like that, do we?) so, please, forgive me this attempt at sensationalism.
Breitling Premier Centenary: The Overall Impression
I am happy that someone at Breitling has finally realized that there are a lot of wealthy people with good taste and there is a strong demand for classy luxury watches.
Like with the last year’s Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43, Breitling sought the inspiration in watches that it sold back in the 1940s-1950s.
Those were the times when luxury watches were associated with elegance and refinement, not with arrogance and machismo.
Their new batch of vintage-styled models is still significantly larger than the classic pieces from half a century ago. Still, they are no longer as defiantly vulgar as the timekeepers from ten -or even five- years ago.
The 42mm Case
At 42 millimeters in diameter, the Centenary is still larger than a classic dressy chronograph. Also, the lugs could have been a trifle shorter.
Still, it doesn’t look as arrogant as, say, the 2015 GT3 collection with its huge 49mm body. Also, at less than 14 millimeters top-to-bottom, it is slim enough for you to use with formal attire.
The case looks even slimmer than it is thanks to the ultra-low-profile bezel that houses a convex sapphire crystal.
For persons with a more active lifestyle that could be a problem since the crystal is poorly protected from occasional bumps. Yet, it is that rare occasion where I would be willing to sacrifice the feeling of security in favor of aesthetics.
There is one little detail that bugs me: the oversized side plaque screwed in to the left side of the body.
Featuring “circular graining” finish -the usual decor that Bentley employs for aluminum interior parts- and a seemingly inevitable “BENTLEY” inscription, it is the single vulgar part of this otherwise flawlessly beautiful timekeeper.
Some habits just die hard, don’t they?
The Strap
Speaking of Bentleys, the quilted leather strap with prominent high-contrast stitching is another reference to the way that Bentley likes to decorate their cars. This obvious reference may, too, raise eyebrows, but at least it doesn’t look as brazen.
Also, if you still think that the leather strap looks too gimmicky, you can always opt for a version with a stainless-steel bracelet.
The Ergonomics
As far as ergonomics is concerned, there are no visible issues here. All controls look well-calculated both for aesthetics and for the ease of use. Some may not like the way the chronograph push-pieces don’t feel premium enough when used, but that’s the only issue that I foresee here.
The Breitling Caliber B01
The watch sports the in-house self-winding caliber B01 that Breitling has first introduced about ten years ago.
Designed to replace the iconic -but no longer exclusive enough- ETA Valjoux 7750 in their chronographs, the Caliber B01 features a more advanced column-wheel chronograph design with a vertical clutch.
The design is not only more efficient than the archaic cam-and-lever layout. It is also a good display of Breitling’s capabilities as a serious watchmaking brand. I mean, you need a lot more expertise and far superior quality control to make such mechanisms on an industrial scale.
Being their first in-house caliber, the B01 is still not as polished as chronographs designed by Rolex.
With the initial bunch, some owners experienced their share of mechanical problems with the movements. Others didn’t care for the “rough” feel of the chronograph push-pieces. Yet, in general, it’s a good caliber that can keep a good time as long as it is properly serviced by qualified personnel.
Unlike the 7750, the B01 boasts many features that make it superior to the legendary workhorse movement. It’s not just the finish and better parts. It’s better both in terms of ergonomics (it, for example, allows changing the date close at 0:00 without damaging the mechanism) and overall usability.
With the same frequency of 28,800vph, the B01 features a power reserve of at least 70 hours thanks to better efficiency and a longer mainspring. This makes the watch more useful if you don’t plan to wear it daily and don’t want to use an automatic winder to keep it going between days of inactivity.
The fact that it is an officially COSC-certified chronometer shouldn’t get you too enthusiastic, though. It’s not like the certification authority carefully examines each mechanism: Breitling makes way too many calibers for that. Yet, it’s nice to have a respective inscription on the timekeeper’s sapphire back.
The B01’s exterior finish may look Spartan for a product that bears the Bentley logo, one of the few symbols of opulence. Yet, all in all, it is good enough.
They even decided to replace the original oscillating weight with a personalized one that features a red-gold insert for better winding efficiency and, you know, to make the Centenary look even more expensive.
The Dial
It is the dial that makes the Premier Bentley Centenary so interesting.
Breitling is not the first brand to use wood veneer for a timekeeper’s face. Yet the choice of material is one of those rare occasions where it not only perfectly complements the overall look and feel of a product, but also builds a solid bridge between the products of two legendary brands.
Bentley uses wood veneer to make their vehicles look even more exclusive.
The California Walnut Burl looks great when applied to door panels, steering wheels, or any other interior surface that is not covered with precious leather. However, its prominent texture is way too large for a timekeeper’s dial opening that is normally less than 40 millimeters in diameter.
Breitling managed to find a piece of wood that looks just as good as walnut but can be used to decorate a watch: Elm Burl.
With its extremely dense patterns, it is used in woodworking starting with things as small as chess pieces and going all the way to custom guitars and even furniture.
Like many other “organic” materials, Elm Burl is becoming scarcer every year, and it’s getting more expensive, too.
The Elm Burl dials work best together with the red-gold versions. Yet, somehow, the stainless-steel ones make an even stronger impression. It’s probably because of the stark contrast between the cold, gray color of the metal, and the natural, warm look of the wood.
The Legibility
The legibility is good. Not great, mind you, but it’s adequate for the task.
The dial is clean enough for me not to call it “busy,” although the unavoidable tachymeter scale makes the chronograph’s face not as clean as I would care for.
There are tiny luminous in the hair-thin “slits” in the hours and minutes hands, but the Superluminova here almost looks like an afterthought. There is just not enough of it for the Centenary to be legible in every imaginable lighting scenario.
On the other hand, it’s neither a “diver,” nor a “pilot.”
The date aperture is as small as usual. I wonder when Breitling finally hears our prayers and creates a nice “Big Date” module for their calibers. As Glashutte Original proved countless times, classic chronographs can look extremely sexy with a good-looking “digital calendar” display.
See also: Almost Smart: Breitling for Bentley Supersports B55 Connected in Titanium
Photos: Breitling
Breitling Premier Centenary: WWR’s Verdict
Originality 4.5/5
Versatility: 4.5/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4/5Overall Rating: 4.75/5
Breitling Premier Centenary specification
Winding: Automatic
Movement: Breitling caliber B01, in-house, COSC-certified chronometer, Swiss Made
Movement finish: Geneva stripes, beveled bridges, polished screw heads
Number of Jewels: 47
Cadence of Balance: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: Approx. 70 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date
Case: 18-karat red gold (ref. RB01181A1Q1X1) / Surgical-grade Stainless steel (refs. AB01181A1Q1A1, AB01181A1Q1X1, and AB01181A1Q1X2)
Shape: Round
Size: 42.00 mm
Height: 13.65 mm
Lug width: 22.00 mm
Front crystal: Sapphire, double anti-reflective coating, convex
Back: Sapphire, screwed, Bentley logo etched on the crystal
Dial: Brown elm burl
Hour markers: Applied
Hands: Luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: 22mm Brown “Bentley” leather strap with contrasting stitching or red gold pin buckle / Folding buckle / Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp