With this 2021 Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT, the Swiss brand finally adds a nice square-shaped, multiple time-zones “aviator” to their extensive product range.
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT: Overall Impression
It is not the first time that Bell & Ross experiments with the concept of a multiple time-zones watch.
In fact, you may call this BR 03-93 GMT a repackaged version of their earlier BR V2-93 GMT collection. The 2018, version differed from the new one only in the shape of the case and the color scheme. The movement, the dial layout, even the fonts share the same DNA, although the newer model is deliberately more brutal.
Well, the same to a degree. The Caliber BR303 no longer uses a refinished ETA caliber 2893-2 as its base. Now, it is a Sellita SW330: a drop-in clone of the same 2893-2 but with four more jewels.
Not as versatile style-wise as the V2-93 GMT, the “square edition” looks flashier and decidedly sportier, though, which I love.
The Case, The Crown & The Bezel
For the square-shaped version, Bell & Ross tried to keep the physical dimensions similar to those of the circular-shaped one.
The stainless-steel body measures 42 mm in width: just a millimeter over the previous model. The stainless-steel bezel with an anodized aluminum insert is still slightly larger than the case for easier handling.
The crown is still small: it is just too short for men with thicker fingers to operate comfortably. Also, if you lead an active lifestyle, you should take into account that, unlike with the “round” version, this BR 03-93 GMT does not feature any sort of crown guards leaving the winding stem unprotected from occasional shocks.
When it comes to pure aesthetics, the case looks gorgeous with its polished and machine-brushed surfaces and oversize screw heads. The bezel, too, makes a great impression thanks to the combination of black and red colors on the aluminum insert.
The Strap
As for the strap, it is premium matte-black calfskin leather with the usual larger-than-life steel pin buckle. A complimentary military-style synthetic fabric strap does not look as impressive but is nice to have for those times when one wants to experiment with a different style for their watch.
The Sellita SW200 Mechanism
ETA calibers used to be very popular among independent brands until the Swatch Group put a stop to it around ten years ago.
Sellita was among the first who came to save the day with several (virtually) drop-in replacements.
The Sellita SW200 replaced the ubiquitous ETA 2824. The GMT-ready SW330-1 that serves as a base for this Bell & Ross caliber BR303 became a simple and reliable alternative to the ETA 2893-2.
Just to put things in perspective, Ulysse Nardin used an SW330-based caliber to power their 2018 Diver 42.
It features an extra hour hand that displays time in a military 24-hour format, as well as the usual calendar and central seconds.
Besides such usual (and nice-to-have) features as manual winding and hacking seconds, there are quick adjustments for the GMT hand and the date via the multifunctional crown.
The mechanism is also quite accurate.
Even the lowest-grade Special versions are adjusted to four positions and usually stay within +/-15 seconds/day, which is not bad.
Dial & Legibility: 4.5/5
The legibility is not great, but it is not terrible, too.
The 12 applied stick-shaped hour-markers are large enough for generous drops of Superluminova that allow good nighttime readability.
These play nicely with even bigger patches of the lume on the broad sword-shaped hour and minute hands. The four Arabic numerals, regretfully, come sans any luminous compound on them. Yet, the digits, too, look great with their brushed surfaces and the instantly recognizable italicized font.
As usual with Bell & Ross, my main complaint here is about how the date window is woefully small. I mean, the date aperture is even smaller than the circle housing the brand’s signature & sign in the logo!
Unlike the aforementioned BR V2-93 GMT, this one (theoretically) can display not two, but three time zones.
The first is in the usual 12-hour format, and the two others are in a 24-hour one which is customary for the ETA 2893 and its clones. Between the two, one is a virtual that comes courtesy of the rotating bezel and requires some simple mental calculations to work.
Frankly, it looks like a marketing BS for me whose simple purpose is to make the watch stand out over the huge crowd of other 2893-based models.
Pricing & Availability
At €3800, the BR 03-93 GMT is not terribly expensive: something like an Omega Planet Ocean GMT with an in-house caliber would set you back at around €2000 more.
A Breitling Avenger GMT with their version of the aforementioned ETA 2893-2 would cost you about €4350 before discounts. So, adding to the equation BR’s unique design language, I would say that the price is more or less justified for what this watch actually is: a very nice piece of jewelry with a very short list of functions.
See also: Grand Seiko Sport Collection Spring Drive GMT SBGE245G Review
Photos: Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT: WWR’s Verdict
Originality 4/5
Versatility: 4/5
Build Quality: 5/5
Usability: 4/5
Overall Legibility: 4.5/5
Nighttime Legibility: 4.5/5
Value for Money: 4.5/5Overall Rating: 4.5/5
Bell & Ross BR 03-93 GMT BR0393-BL-ST/SCA specification
Price: €3800
Winding: Automatic
Movement: Bell & Ross caliber BR303, based on Sellita SW330, Swiss Made
Movement finish: No data
Number of Jewels: 25
Cadence of Balance: 28,800 vph
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date
Case: Stainless steel
Bezel: Anodized aluminum
Crown: Stainless steel
Shape: Square
Bezel shape: Round
Size: 42.00 mm
Front crystal: Sapphire, anti-reflective coating
Back: Solid, stamped
Dial: Black sunray
Numerals: Arabic
Hour markers: Applied, luminous (Superluminova)
Hands: Luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Matte black calfskin leather with steel pin buckle / Complimentary synthetic fabric strap